A couple things come into play here when insulating, and I am no expert and made mistakes along the way, but here's some things to consider. I have a 20x30 (soon to expand to 34x30) metal building from (Carolina Carports). I learned as I went, made mistakes, and wish I could have a do-over… The following are opinions, which definitely differ, but I figure I would compile what I’ve posted about these tube style buildings. Heck 10 +/- years ago I was working on an open gravel driveway out of a little shed! That way I can keep roughing out overall layout too. I will have the concrete guy make them a little long but still need a rough idea. Symetrical, asymetrical, 10lf, 12lf, 14lf, lots of suggestions out there. One bit of info I'll need by October - how far back from the doors should I place the pads for a 2 post lift? I want walk-behind room with the overhead door closed but don't want to waste room either. They said to check for leaks before spraying, as once sprayed warranty is void. Alan's Buildings also told me that I can show them on some sort of drawings they supply and CC will verify. I did check about collateral load with Carolina Carports ('CC') and the guy didn't have it offhand, however he stated electrical / lighting wouldn't be an issue as long as nothing structural was cut / modified. Carolina Carports rec's 1/4" thick elastomeric foam tape. ![]() I will use some sort of sealing tape/rolled mastic regardless. The drawings Alan's Buildings gave me do show that, with a step down for the siding. I'm going to keep the leaky 'oversize' slab advice front and center when I discuss this with the city. I'm in my later 50s though so I'm not sure if the warranty matters. So, do I get 26 gauge instead of 29ga sheet, OR 12ga tube insead of 14ga, and if I get the 12ga tube I get a 20 year warranty instead of 10. I could afford 1 upgrade to the building (kicking and screaming). Then I find out the included garage doors are roll ups and the man doors are the light duty ones (no go to either), there's another likely 3K more in doors - ouch! I'll be lucky if I don't have to close the framed out door openings up with scrap plywood for a couple months. I've been reading a lot of your posts - thanks readhead!īecause of cost. He also said that because of heat generation one needs to have a more experienced sprayer on 29 ga metal, as it can warp if applied too quickly, that a very thin layer should be sprayed down first then go back. They will no longer guarantee spray foam sprayed onto flexible stuff like vapor barrier or bubble wrap - only solid surfaces like the metal itself or sheathing. What are your concerns on spray foam? By sheer coincidence I just spoke to a foam manufacturer and had a great discussion with him. I have added 3 more q's for the manufacturer to my list. The building company won't even schedule the building until the concrete is ready, but the price can change until I order it, so I have some time but would sure like to get the order in (as steel pricing appears to be 'low'). The building specs say: 'Certified 140 mph and 35 psf 5' on center'. Yes I do live in a 'city' and have just started discussions with the building department - I just sent them the slab recs I got from the vendor recently. I haven't asked about clearance height (I will now!) but do see the bracing from the walls to the roof. Tube steel I think with horizontal 29ga metal panels I believe? It's a Carolina Carport style building - it might even BE theirs (not sure yet). Anything else I should do to prep for it? I know I should have some sort of cloth / vapor barrier inside the metal siding and roof. *I'm hoping I can afford spray foam insulation. Of everything this area is likely the most important to me, and I need to know where to tell the concrete guy to put the thicker in-pad areas for the lift. ![]() How far in should it be? How far back should the toolboxes/work bench area be from the overhead door? I'm willing to sacrifice other area space to make this right. How big of an area should I plan for the car bay? I assume a lift should be centered on the door. One door (on the left, looking at the front) will be for a (eventual) car bay with a lift. * A 30' gable end is facing the front and will have 2 ea 10' x 10' doors. *Any general advice on the pad/site work/ building prep? (the slab will have a small 'step' down where the walls go and be slanted down outside the wall slightly another 8-10" or so). ![]() I'll give details on the contractors, suppliers, and costs as I go.īefore I lock in the building I do have some questions and an looking for guidance and advice. I chose the metal building because even with the additional concrete costs it's cheaper all in than a pole barn here (on the outskirts of the Cleveland OH Metro area). ![]() I can't believe I'm finally posting this! I've been trying to put this together for actual years now and it's time.
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